A scene from "The Forbidden Room." Photo from "The Forbidden Room" Facebook page.
MAN, what a trip!
“The Forbidden Room” from Guy Maddin and Evan Johnson is a mind-numbing ride through a fragmented world of absurd silliness. It premieres tonight at the 53rd New York Film Festival.
“The Forbidden Room” is also wonderfully coherent in an incoherent way. A patchwork of old, discarded silent and sound films as well as other found objects, it veers wildly and widely from men trapped underwater in a submarine to a woman captured by a bunch of savage men.
The damsel’s salvation, it initially appears, is in the hands of lumberjacks. It is perhaps the lumberjack leader who turns up out of nowhere in the aforementioned submarine.
Think of “The Forbidden Room” as stream-of-consciousness writing.
Elsewhere, a man illustrates how to bathe. A young woman is gifted a homely, two-headed Janus by her intended. She is not pleased. And other oddities ...
“It thrills me to get cheap-ass effects up there that other people might embrace,” co-director GM almost cooed during a press conference after a press and industry screening of the film. “The Forbidden Room” came about, GM, gave the room to know, as a proof that a film can be created from the flotsam and jetsam of the Internet.
The directors have made a treasure out of their foraging and trashing about. “The Forbidden Room” is a piece of brilliant, controlled chaos.
Also today, in its U.S. premiere, is Jia Zhangke’s “Mountains May Depart.”
It is China 1999. The Internet is arriving. Mobile phones, too. The Chinese are enjoying new-found freedoms. Dancing to their own tune and generally expressing themselves in heretofore unseen ways.
Capitalism is coming. Many are embracing this new god. Those who don’t are left behind – sometimes forgotten. But capitalism has a cost, of course. Much can be lost in the quest for Dollar.
“Mountains May Depart” makes these points in mainly subtle, but sure ways. It is a cautionary tale about discarding one’s past and identity for an uncertain future.
Visit http://www.filmlinc.com to learn more about the 53rd New York Film Festival, including showtimes and venues.
Nanni Moretta, Giulia Lazzarini and Margherita Buy in "Mia Madre." Photo from "Mia Madre" Facebook page.
“MIA Madre” is a film that can be difficult and uncomfortable to watch because it is so close to the lives of many.
Once we reach a certain age we are beset by life’s vicissitudes: financial reverses, divorce, illness. Dying and death.
Moviegoers looking for escape will not find it in the latest film from Italian director Nanni Moretti.“Mia Madre” (“My Mother”) has its U.S. premiere at the 53rd New York Film Festival today.
Autobiographical, “Mia Madre” revolves around director Margherita (Margherita Buy). Her beloved mother is dying. She is in the middle of making a film with American actor Barry Huggins (John Turturro providing comic relief) who is likable but high-maintenance. And her daughter is neglecting her Latin.
Sound familiar? Like so many of us, Margherita must buck up and manager the turmoil in both her personal and professional life. Falling apart is not an option.
NM’s mother became ill and died while he was making “We Have a Pope,” he said through an interpreter during a press conference after the press and industry screening of “Mia Madre.” Though he did not elaborate on why he chose a woman to play the director instead of playing the director himself, he admitted to a kinship with Margherita.
“I am more like Margherita than Giovanni. Giovanni is the character that I wanna be but I am not.”
In a departure, NM cast himself not in the lead, but in a supporting role. Giovanni is the brother of Margherita. In another departure, Giovanni assumes the role of lead caretaker of their mother (Giulia Lazzarini).
It is he who spends the most time with her, dealing with medical personnel and meeting what needs of hers he can. He keeps Margherita abreast of developments. It is Giovanni who takes a leave of absence from his job to be there for his mother. It is the man in this situation who has the cooler head in this situation.
Conversely, Margherita is walking a tight rope and brings the audience with her. At any moment she is going to snap. Will it be when she arrives to find her mother’s hospital bed empty? Or when jokester Barry forgets his lines for the umpteenth time on a difficult shoot? A meltdown is imminent.
MB delivers a taut, controlled performance as a woman under siege and it shows in the often haggard appearance of her character.
“Mia Madre” is an engaging drama about difficult circumstances but manages to avoid the melodrama that would surely plummet it to the level of a pedestrian soap opera.
It is also all-too real.
Visit http://www.filmlinc.com to learn more about the 53rd New York Film Festival, including showtimes and venues.
Ari Fliakos and Suzzy Roche in "The Room," which will soon be staged by The Wooster Group. Photo courtesy of The Wooster Group.
BY TAMARA BECK
BENEFITS and special theatrical events are about helping organizations by showing off the people who support them.
After all, everybody needs a little help sometimes. A gala is a great way to do someone a favor and have fun to boot.
Consequently, the stage of The Performing Garage is to be illuminated with star power for the 2015 benefit of The Wooster Group. The Wooster Group is a company of New York City-based artists who make works for theater, dance and media.
A constellation of big names is expected to show for The Wooster Group's soiree on Monday, 5 Oct. Frances McDormand is to host the couscous dinner catered by Chef Alejandro Alcocer of Green Brown Orange.
Said dinner will be consumed by guests as well as the luminaries co-chairing the benefit committee. Martha Wainwright is one of the many co-chairs. She is going to sing (Edith Piaf) for her supper.
Others expected are Maggie Gyllenhaal, Peter Sarsgaard, Wes Anderson and Sarah Jessica Parker. They, too, will sing (EP) for their supper.
Those who purchase tickets for the dinner and benefit will also receive tickets to The Wooster Group's upcoming production of Harold Pinter's "The Room" later in the season. Further, dinner guests will have the opportunity to mix and mingle with the gala's celebrity organizers.
Many of the stars championing The Wooster Group have a long history with the company. FMcD and Maura Tierney, for instance, are associate members.
MW comes to the benefit through her brother Rufus Wainwright's involvement as an associate member. WA admires the work The Wooster Group does and was impressed by Willem Dafoe's association when he hired him for "The Grand Budapest Hotel."
Visit http://www.thewoostergroup.org/ to learn more about The Wooster Group and its 2015 benefit.
One Race and Many Universal Experiences
James Earl Jones and Cecily Tyson in D.L. Coburn's "The Gin Game." Photo by Joan Marcus.
TRULY colorblind casting is exemplified in, say, the role of S. Epatha Merkerson in William Inge's “Come Back, Little Sheba.” SEM is Lola Delaney, the disillusioned wife of a recovering alcoholic played by Kevin Anderson.
Frances McDormand, opposite Morgan Freeman in Clifford Odets' “The Country Girl” was also a production in which the audience is "blinded" to the color of the characters.
Productions such as the recent all-Asian production of CO's “Awake and Sing” change the complexion of the characters. In doing so, they underscore the universality and humanity of the playwright's work. That, of course, really is the point either way.
Cecily Tyson's Tony Award-winning role as Miss Carrie Watts in Horton Foote's “The Trip to Bountiful” is yet another example. CT was joined by a (nearly) all-black cast.
The National Asian American Theater Company staged a production of "Awake and Sing" earlier this year. Photo by William P. Steele.
Now in “The Gin Game,” at the Golden Theatre through 10 Jan., CT plays opposite two-time Tony winner James Earl Jones in the two-hander that originally starred Jessica Tandy and Hume Cronyn. JT won a Tony for the role. She and HC were also featured in the film version of the play.
Could Lorraine Hansberry's “A Raisin in the Sun” be transposed thusly? Would it make any difference to the universality and humanity in her play?
Don Cheadle as Miles Davis in "Miles Ahead." Photo from "Miles Ahead" Facebook page.
NO mincing words. You are a liar. Now, tell the truth.
That is what participants will be asked to do when they step into “The Truth Box,” a travelling, truth-telling booth that is part of a larger project called “The (Dis)Honesty Project.”
The Truth Box is one of the hottest tickets today, the first day of the 53rd New York Film Festival, which features other installations in its Convergence category, as well as some classic films. All are free today, "Free Friday. The last day of NYFF53 is 11 Oct.
In The Truth Box, participants are invited (challenged?) to simply be honest about a previous lie. Collaborators behavioral scientist Dan Ariely and director Yael Melamede began The Truth Box and other parts of “The (Dis)Honesty Project” as an exploration of the negative societal impacts of dishonesty.
It is somehow fitting that such an installation opens during the visit of Pope Francis. The papal visit is also responsible for the delay in presenting the festival’s opening film. No doubt, the Holy Father would like to hear from any number of people from the confines of a truth box.
This opening day is one of the few in NYFF history that the opening film will not be shown. The world premiere of Robert Zemeckis’ “The Walk” begins at 6 p.m. on Saturday (26 Sept.).
“The Walk” recounts the run-up to and that actual death-defying, high-wire feat of Philippe Petit's (Joseph Gordon-Levitt) between the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center some 40 years ago. It is shown in 3D and is said to have the ability to cause nausea in some viewers.
Henry Fonda and Claudette Colbert in "Drums Along the Mohawk." Archive photo.
The NYFF53 closer is a film about another New York-based, real-life episode that unfolded in the 70s. In "Miles Ahead," which has its world premiere on 10 Oct., Don Cheadle wears three hats as director, actor (titular character) and writer to capture an angst-ridden period in the life of trumpeter Miles Davis.
Elsewhere under Convergence, where stories are told across platforms and are largely interactive, is “Temping” from Michael Rau. It seems to present a portrait of machines replacing man (or woman, in this case). Actuary Sarah Jane is on vacation and “performing” her duties are a PC, laser printer and other office equipment.
Also playing on NYFF53 opening day is a series of classic films, including “Wild River,” “Drums Along the Mohawk” and “All that Jazz.”
Visit http://www.filmlinc.com to learn more about the 53rd New York Film Festival, including showtimes and venues.
From the Helen Yarmak S/S 2016 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.
Some of the players on LAST Day: CFDA (Fashion Incubator) S/S 2016 NYFW: Market, Ralph Lauren, J Mendel, Calvin Klein, Helen Yarmak, Marc Jacobs, Verge: Queer New York Fashion Week
Look yonder, open your eyes wide.
Three minx standing side by side.
In yellow. In blue. In red.
Hats atop their pretty heads.
Heiresses on horseback?
Jockeys for the racetrack?
No, no, heaven’s no!
It’s a fashion show.
Mannequins milling around.
The penthouse suite of The Crown.
Actually, it is the Helen Yarmak S/S 2016 presentation on the last day of New York Fashion Week: The Shows. For spring, the very exacting designer plucks tulips (in part) for her inspiration, hence the fetching chapeaux.
This year’s crop also yields fox, weasel, lamb, ermine and sable morphed into vests, wraps, jackets and coats of various shapes and styles. Some are reversible, revealing attractive printed leather.
The colors – white, purple, pink, green, too – also take cues from the designer’s jewelry collection.
In deepest winter one will not only be warm, but will be ensconced in a dash of color to offset the blandness of frigid tundras.
Come on baby light my fire …
Fashion Connection
FRENCH Connection hitched its car to the New York Fashion Week: The Shows express,“ launching” its F/W 2015 collection with a little soiree.
Two ensembles from the French Collection F/W 2015 collection in stores now. Photo by Yours Truly.
Pretty girls were romping around the Soho store got up in the latest, which was hanging around for anyone wanting a buy.
Pretty boys in the form of Boston-based band, Handsome Ghost, serenaded the crowd while the deejay was on break.
… “I swear that you can never tell … I can see the sky …”
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
From the Raul Penaranda S/S 2016 collections. Photos by Yours Truly.
Some of the players on Day 7: Suno, Raul Penaranda, Michael Kors, Delpozo, Paul Andrew, Parsons MFA, Naeem Khan, Boss, DKNY, The Adam Levine Collection Presented by Shop Your Way Brands/Kmart, Chiara Boni La Petite Robe, Theory, Cynthia Rowley, Greg Lauren, Proenza Schouler, The Blonds, Thomas Wylde, Stella Nolasco, Bibhu Mohapatra, J. Crew, Anna Sui, Demoo Parkchoonmoo
IT has been a difficult fashion week for various reasons around changes in venue, management and best practices.
Ask anybody who has been attending shows – whether covering, working backstage or examining goods for purchase. But I digress before I make my actual point.
Certainly, it has been a difficult fashion week. It has also been a good fashion week from a creative perspective. This observation is based on the shows I have seen. There are any number that fail to capture my interest or imagination because the collections are created more out of commercial expediency than any other factor.
Of course, all of these frocks bounding down runways, catwalks and standing around rooms are for sale. Fashion week is a tradeshow, after all, lest one forget in the maelstrom of activity around any celebrity-accented frontrow.
But must craft be sacrificed in the doing? Absotively not!
Two lines that strike a good balance between commerce and creativity (craft) are Raul Penaranda and Chiara Boni La Petite Robe. The talent behind both – F.I.T.-trained Raul Penaranda and self-taught Chiara Boni – launched in 2010 and 2007, respectively.
Though they have a different design aesthetic, they have a similar design ethic: Not trying to reinvent the wheel and not trying to please one and all. At the moment that is the highest compliment that can be bestowed on these artists, for one is at a loss for more words. It should be noted, though, that the designers like a bright, bold color for S/S 2016. Watch the videos; see the photos.
Two brands peddling the kind of product one hopes will abound during future New York Fashion Week: The Shows, or whatever moniker this affair deigns to affix to itself.
Raul Penaranda and Chiara Boni La Petite Robe know what they are about.
Chiara Boni La Petite Robe
From the Chiara Boni La Petite Robe S/S 2016 collections. Photos by Yours Truly.
From the Chiara Boni La Petite Robe S/S 2016 collections. Photos courtesy of Chiara Boni La Petite Robe.
On deck today, LAST DAY: CFDA (Fashion Incubator) S/S 2016 NYFW: Market, Ralph Lauren, J Mendel, Calvin Klein, Helen Yarmak, Marc Jacobs, Verge: Queer New York Fashion Week Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
From the Michael Costello S/S 2016 collection. Photos by Yours Truly.
Some of the players on Day 6: Angel Sanchez, Fashion Guerilla, Amato Haute Couture, Art Hearts Fashion: Mister Triple X, Byfield, Alexandra Vidal, Tory Burch, Michael Costello, Croation Fashion Invasion, Rodarte, Diesel Black Gold, Dennis Basso, Serena Williams Signature Collection by HSN, Malan Breton, Milly, Allison Mitchell, Veronica Beard, Carmen Marc Valvo, Nanette Lepore, Alisha Trimble, Narciso Rodriguez, B Michael America
WHAT a difference a year has made! Last year this time, the Michael Costello woman was jetsetting hither and yon. Alas, she was barely decently covered.
For S/S 2016, she has – in the words of an old Southern woman – “put some clothes on.” Consequently, she has returned from the brink of trashy to the sanity of classy in a three-inch adjustment. The collection of gowns and pant ensembles is beautifully constructed, featuring impressive beadwork.
Of course, it is sexy, too, especially that jumpsuit in hot pink. In this collection it can be inferred that MC is channeling Pam Grier’s Foxy Brown character. Indeed, S/S 2016 has a strong 70s vibe, with toga-style gowns, some with attached flowing capes in silk.
Perhaps, too, there is a nod to old Hollywood. The marker is a pronounced shoulder reminiscent of the styles popular in classic films from the 40s.
Regardless of the references, MS S/S 2016 is sexy and, classy.
Serena Williams Collection by HSN
THE tennis star may not have added a 22nd grand slam to her arsenal. However, her second collection is a winner. A year later, things have changed in a good way for SW, too. There is a confidence in this S/S 2016 collection that was lacking last year. Again, not reinventing the box, but introducing accessible frocks that have some oomph. A leitmotif is the leather fringes. Nice touch, like a volley at the net.
Angel Sanchez
From the Angel Sanchez S/S 2016 collection. Photos courtesy of Angel Sanchez.
A tropical garden drives the Angel Sanchez S/S 2016. The colors are brilliant and the silhouettes range from fitted to flowing. All well-constructed. A smashing display.
FASHION GUERILLA – Injury
ONE of four designers showing under the Hong Kong-based Fashion Guerilla rubric, Injury’s base colors are red and black. It’s an engaging mix of lightly tailored and somewhat deconstructed looks for men and women.
FASHION GUERILLA – Daydream Nation
Photos by Yours Truly.
BODACIOUS. Prairie-like dresses pants tapered and loose. Eccentric and offbeat. Yet hip, in its way.
FASHION GUERILLA – Placed by Gideon
MULTI-LAYERED menswear redolent of shirts and jackets with folds, asymmetry, dropped bodices and so forth. Purple is a base color. Androgynous. Chill with quiet swagger.
FASHION GUERILLA – Methodology
CLEVER mix of hard and soft fabrics. Even cleverer is the sandal-sock-ribbon combo. Sexy, confident, feminine with a commanding edge.
On deck today, Day 7: Suno, Raul Penaranda, Michael Kors, Delpozo, Paul Andrew, Parsons MFA, Naeem Khan, Boss, DKNY, The Adam Levine Collection Presented by Shop Your Way Brands/Kmart, Chiara Boni La Petite Robe, Theory, Cynthia Rowley, Greg Lauren, Proenza Schouler, The Blonds, Thomas Wylde, Stella Nolasco, Bibhu Mohapatra, J. Crew, Anna Sui, Demoo Parkchoonmoo
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
Some of the players on Day 5: Concept Korea, The Row, Carolina Herrera, Jil Sander, Lela Rose, Designers’ Showcase, Houghton, Cristina Ruales, Brock Collection Eckhaus Ratta, First Lady by Pamela Humphrey’s, Barbara TFrank, Jeremy Scott, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Gabriela Cadena, Mitsou Ly, Thom Browne, Mansur Gavriel, Ese Azenabor, Zac Posen, Morgane Le Fay
Jarret and Kaal E’Suk Tae have a similar design aesthetic – at least for S/S 2016 anyways.
Showing at New York Fashion Week: The Shows under the pared down umbrella of Concept Korea, the two sent out deftly tailored ensembles predominantly in black and white. Both lines have a relaxed, chic elegance about them.
They diverge, however, in their choice of influences this season. Jarret considers the notion of the modern woman and her alter-ego. In effect, a dichotomy.
On the one hand, this woman may be a self-assured business woman who eschews the traditional business attire for a shirt or dress with that fetching swirl pattern. At play, she prefers an utterly feminine and flirty black or white blouse with the billowing dropped sleeves. She’s a minx.
Regardless of her persona, however, she presents a polished, poised palette.
A similar tableau defines Kaal, inspired in part by King Nebuchadnezzar’s dream in the second chapter of the bible book of Daniel.
Gold, silver and bronze metallic patches on dresses and jackets , for instance, reference the head of the statue in the king’s dream.
Elsewhere, a striking dress with a flounce hem on one side and pleats on the other suggest the warring clay and iron references in the dream. In a clever way, elements of the dream are deftly applied to many of the designs.
It is not clear whether a blouse or two with oversized, bell bottom sleeves are a nod to retro western style that also drives S/S2016. In any case, they are just beautiful.
Ese Azenabor
ALSO relying on the good book for inspiration for S/S 2016 is Ese Azenabor.
The self-taught designer who quit university to pursue a career in fashion, shares her vision of a Garden of Eden.
Of course, it must be lush and verdant, plus keeping in mind the changing seasons that bring, gold, purple, brown, red ... And so it is. The collection of after-5 and evening wear also features a goodly portion of beadwork (the designer’s passion) and florals.
Though on occasion too literal with the garden prints, the collection is fresh and beautiful. EA knows her way around beadwork, too.
And for someone with a fledgling career and perhaps must seriously consider economies – the Nigerian-born designer debuted her eponymous line at Fall/Winter 2015 – she somehow got her hands on some custom fabrics. Digital prints are also part of the mix.
The chiffons and silks aren’t worried by myriad wrinkles and stray threads that mar far too many collections.
Young talent is to be encouraged. To that end, Ese Azenabor, keep up the good work.
TechStyle NYC
DURING fashion week lounges abound for media, tastemakers and “influencers” to chill out and meet emerging brands in which their audience may have an interest.
Becoming increasingly popular is TechStyle NYC. Described as an "experience" by organizers, it's main focus is on tech-driven projects. On this year’s roster are two that caught the attention of Yours Truly.
First, is the New York-based Boomerang NYC (http://www.boomerangnyc.com). Nine month's young, it is an on-demand dry cleaning service. Through its app one (just lower Manhattan at the moment) can have his/her dry cleaning picked up and dropped off in within a day or two.
It’s also competitively priced, and owners Greg Klein and Rob Jackson assert that is superior to the average dry cleaner.
On the upside, it operates seven days a week until 9 p.m.
On the downside, it does not deal with a dry cleaner that will address the needs of a woman’s shirt at the same price point of that of a men’s shirt.
On the upside, Boomerang NYC cares about the environment to the extent that its people will pick up a load on a bicycle.
And why the name Boomerang. We know but want one of these guys to say it.
You’re on RJ: “You throw it out and it comes right back at you.”
ELSEWHERE at TechStyle NYC is TresseNoire, LLC (http://www.tressnoire.com to learn more about TresseNoire, LLC. )
The company, co-founded by Regina Gwynn has an app through which you can schedule someone to come to your house or wherever you are in reason to tame your curly hair.
The Philadelphia-based company, which also does business in New Jersey, is now setting up shop in New York. RG&Co. has done a lot of vetting to ensure that the hair stylist is a well-trained professional.
Just as important, TresseNoire offers these services at prices that can cost less than going to a natural hair salon, where the prices can be outside of too much.
On deck today, Day 6: Angel Sanchez, Fashion Guerilla, Amato Haute Couture, Art Hearts Fashion: Mister Triple X, Byfield, Alexandra Vidal, Tory Burch, Michael Costello, Croation Fashion Invasion, Rodarte, Diesel Black Gold, Dennis Basso, Serena Williams Signature Collection by HSN, Malan Breton, Milly, Allison Mitchell, Veronica Beard, Carmen Marc Valvo, Nanette Lepore, Alisha Trimble, Narciso Rodriguez, B Michael America
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
Some of the players on Day 4: Fashion Shenzen, Public School, Derek Lam, Rachel Zoe, Lie Sangbong, Jenny Packham, Ground Zero, Georgine, Prabal Gurang, Vivienne Hu, FTL Moda, Elie Tahari, Chloe Gosselin, Hood by Air, Tracy Reese, Nicopanda, LaQuan Smith, Thakoon, Designers’ Premier, Carmen Steffens, Diane von Furstenburg, Anna’s Loud, Wild, Alexandra Frida, Jonathan Simkhai, Edun, Georgine, Binzario Couture
It has a more refined edge. These are the thoughts of Yours Truly as I watch the S/S 2016 Public School show.
Common has some thoughts, too, and shares them most eloquently. “That’s was incredible. Public School is one of my favorite artistic expressions. Their fashion line is what we want, man. It’s got everything we want in it."
The swarm around Common after the Public School S/S 2016 show at Skylight at Moynihan Station. Photo by Yours Truly.
And what does the singer, actor poet want? “I want things that feel fresh, things that feel new. Things that feel grounded but at the same time artistic. And when you wear it, it feels light. You feel like, ‘awright, this is fly and it’s comfortable and it’s beautiful.’ It’s got everything. I love it.”
Heretofore, Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have leaned heavily toward a street sensibility – an aesthetic with a more pronounced swagger.
However, the black stripe gaia long coat has a sophistication that evokes an uptown vibe. Hugh Hefner might want to trade in his trademark pajamas for such a frock.
Renee Elise Goldsberry (“Hamilton,” “One Life to Live”), fetching in a black, white and gray Public School sleeveless zip-front dress with pleated skirt has a favorite, too.
“There was this one sheer jacket that had some embroidered flowers on the side. It was all sheer; it was absolutely beautiful.” (feather embroidered black crepe gaia jacket).
The actress, who made her New York Fashion Week: The Shows debut at Public School (her first professional fashion show), added: “In general, I think the theme of the very loose, structured clothing inspired me.” (See video above).
The collection, done in mainly black and white – a signature of the label – is an expression of self-possessed calm.
No one will think you are trying too hard of you’re turned out in the chunky intarsia knit pullover and bonded kara skirt in off white.
FTL MODA – Wild
AMONG this year’s crop of designers (including Anna's Loud, Carmen Steffens and Alexandra Frida)showing under the Italy-based FTL Moda banner, the most notable is Wild.
Barefoot models. Slowly walking down the runway. In a trancelike state. Various suede and shearling ensembles. Snatches of red satin. Engaging. All.
FTL MODA – Anna’s Loud
FTL MODA – Alexandra Frida
FTL MODA – Carmen Steffens
On deck today, Day 5: Concept Korea, The Row, Carolina Herrera, Jil Sander, Lela Rose, Designers’ Showcase, Houghton, Cristina Ruales, Brock Collection Eckhaus Ratta, First Lady by Pamela Humphrey’s, Barbara TFrank, Jeremy Scott, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Gabriela Cadena, Mitsou Ly, Thom Browne, Mansur Gavriel, Ese Azenabor, Zac Posen, Morgane Le Fay
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
Some of the players on Day 3: Adam Lippes, Lacoste, Misha Nonoo, Jill Stuart, Noon by Noor, Emerging Designers Collective, Osklen, Dion Lee, Rebecca Minkoff, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Tibi, Tsion Rocks by Yvette Crocker, Skingraft, Mara Hoffman, Ji Oh, Christian Siriano, Francesca Liberatore, Designers’ Collective, Banana Republic, E Sosa, Santa Clara Moda, Chrisber’Y, Anthony Rubio, Marco Marco, Collina Strada, Monique Lhuillier, Frank B Hollywood, Baby Ghost, Altuzarra, Son Jung Wan, Amiat by Tamil Robinson Group
NOW this is the kind of energy that the Betsey Johnson show wanted yesterday (http://www.bit.ly/1invQoj) .
All her people needed to do was to contact Marco Morante’s people for the loan of his models. L.A has been in the house since Day 1 of fashion week and closed out STYLE FashionWeek on a very high-energy note with MM's S/S 2016 Marco Marco collection.
The latest collection mainly features looks in black and yellow from the designer’s three-year-old underwear line. Though scanty and skimpy, it is clear that he knows his way around underwear and, outerwear. He is a frequent consultant on “RuPaul’s Dra Race” and has dressed his share of celebs, including Nicki Minaj and Katy Perry.
Meanwhile, a bit of background on STYLE Fashion Week. In case you are unawares, Los Angeles has a fashion week. It’s young (2011) but has become hugely popular. If Yours Truly is not mistaken, STYLE FashionWeek makes its debut in New York City with the S/S 2016 season.
This particular dog-and pony show has been holding it down at Gotham Hall since Thursday. STYLE FashionWeek is a showcase for Los Angeles-based designers and essentially any designer who can pass muster who might wish to show under its umbrella.
It is clear on this last day of STYLE FashionWeek that Los Angeles isn’t afraid to make a little extra coin by inviting in the public – the paying public. This is also a business model that WME/IMG is toying with this season for New York Fashion Week: The Shows. Purists – who staunchly and stubbornly believe that fashion week, no matter how gussied up, is a tradeshow exclusively for media, buyers and tastemakers – are rendered nervous by this prospect.
Yet because fashion is uber-popular, a little walking-around money can be had by inviting regular folk willing to part with as little as $75 to see (shows) sip (wine) and savor (food). It went down for several hours yesterday at STYLE FashionWeek with the La Nuit en Rose Wine Festival (http://www.nuitrose.com).
By the time of the Marco Marco show, the crowd was sufficiently watered and fed and in want of some entertainment. It had it.
It was obvious from the opening moments of the show that a spectacle was brewing. Simply watch the videos dispersed throughout this dispatch and the meaning will become clear.
Santa Clara Moda
CLARA Edwards is a self-professed romantic. It informs her way of being and her design aesthetic. In her S/S 2016 Santa Clara Moda collection, the London-trained designer leans heavily on chiffon, gauze and lace. The result is frocks that have a quiet, timeless beauty.
Anthony Rubio post-show Step and Repeat
ANTHONY Rubio only showed his S/S 2016 women’s collection. Yet, many dogs were spotted on the step and repeat after his show yesterday during STYLE Fashion Week at Gotham Hall.
The designer also doesdoggie fashions.
On deck today, Day 4: Fashion Shenzen, Public School, Derek Lam, Rachel Zoe, Lie Sangbong, Jenny Packham, Ground Zero, Georgine, Prabal Gurang, Vivienne Hu, FTL Moda, Elie Tahari, Chloe Gosselin, Hood by Air, Tracy Reese, Nicopanda, LaQuan Smith, Thakoon, Designers’ Premier, Carmen Steffens, Diane von Furstenburg, Anna’s Loud, Wild, Alexandra Frida, Jonathan Simkhai, Edun, Georgine, Binzario Couture
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
Some of the players on Day 2: CG, Gabriela Hearst, Wes Gordon, Jonathan Cohen, Visvim, Jason Wu, Yigal Azrouel, Novis, Kate Spade, Ida Cohen, Custo Barcelona, Zimmermann, Tanya Taylor, Rosie Assoulin, Sally LaPointe, Betsey Johnson, Karigam,Polo, Cushnie et Ochs, Giulietta, Max Gengos, Pamella Roland, Kye, Ryan Roche, Nicole Miller, Givenchy, Zang Toi, Chromat, Academy of Art University
ONE encounters a legend of prints whenever taking Custo Barcelona under consideration. In a good way, in the main.
For S/S 2016 at New York Fashion Week: The Shows, it is the same. Yet, there is a differentness. It has taken a few passes of players in the new line to suss it out. Dare one utter such a characterization of a Custo Barcelona collection?
One dares. It is elegant. For women, anyway. Men are a bit of an afterthought. “Carefree elegance,” are their key words for the new collection, drawing heavily on the label’s playbook.
Meanwhile, on the women’s side, it is called “Slow,” taking cues from the zeitgeist in the culinary movement to return to and enjoy slow cooking. The dizzying array of patterns – it’s in there.
However, it seems that more elegance is imparted by also relying on small, solid blocks of color here and there. Another device is occasionally pulling back a print or two, creating a more coherent, polished tableaux.
One can get used to this.
From the Custo Barcelona S/S 2016 collection. Photos by Yours Truly.
Zang Toi
Though Zang Toi S/S 2016 is inspired by a volcanic Greek Island, the collection is a meditation on serene elegance. A playlist of soothing music– including some Maria Callas favorites – further set the tone.
The stunning opening series of whites – pantsuits, tunics, dresses, blouses – in various high-thread-count cottons is the embodiment of Zen. Accessible where white can often imply frigidity, the peasant blouses with their oversized sleeves, in particular, suggest an invitation to watch one of the breathtaking sunsets for which the towns and villages of Santorini Island are known.
Another ironic twist is the minimalist quality of the collection. Where ZT could have indulged in an overabundance of stitching and beading to conjure the splendors of this patch of God’s green earth, he chooses instead to employ mere touches, deferring to scale.
For instance, only the cap sleeves of an ocean blue (navy) woven silk sheath are covered by hand-beaded sequins in ocean green. Elsewhere, an ocean blue Maria Callas great coat bears the same ocean green sequins in a block of space near its hem.
Incidentally, ZT keeps the color palette simple too – mainly white, turquoise and navy, with splashes of green. It’s a tranquil setting.
Betsey Johnson
WE can all but hope that we have the zest for life (and flexibility) that Betsey Johnson does when we’re 73.
It is not clear whether a S/S 2016 collection, titled “The Curious Case of Betsey Button,” was created or whether the cartwheeling, side-splitting, high-kicking designer raided her trunks. Tutus, tiaras, chains, cutouts, fishnet stockings, prairie dresses …
In paying homage to her 50th year in the ragtrade, the punk grand dame showed nightclub-inspired looks from each of the five decades in roughly descending order, introducing each in rhyme over an intercom
The models, God help them, how bland! BJ may have plucked drag queens and transgenders to do her on-stage dancing, vamping, vogueing and posing as each era was introduced.
Still, it’s Betsey, so there is always fun nearby. Happy 50th Betsey. And many, many, many more!
Academy of Art University
The San Francisco-based Academy of Art University (AAU) always represents a breath of fresh air at New York Fashion Week
Each season, AAU – celebrating 10 years at NYFW with S/S 2016 – brings a crop of students showing their thesis collection. Incidentally, these are not mere vanity projects to fulfill curriculum requirements.
AAU grads work with some of the top names in fashion. Alexander McQueen, Banana Republic, Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs are among them.
Last night, Livia Bianda and Wenhan Yuan showed two of the strongest collections. Remember these names.
On deck today, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Lacoste, Misha Nonoo, Jill Stuart, Noon by Noor, Emerging Designers Collective, Osklen, Dion Lee, Rebecca Minkoff, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Tibi, Tsion Rocks by Yvette Crocker, Skingraft, Mara Hoffman, Ji Oh, Christian Siriano, Francesca Liberatore, Designers’ Collective, E Sosa, Santa Clara Moda, Chrisber’Y, Anthony Rubio, Marco Marco, Banana Republic, Collina Strada, Monique Lhuillier, Frank B Hollywood, Baby Ghost, Altuzarra, Son Jung Wan, Amiat by Tamil Robinson Group,
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
From the 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.
Some of the players on Day 1: Nicholas K, BCBG, Area, Erin Fetherston, Assembly NY, Creatures of the Wind, 5:31 Jerome, Tess Giberson, Brothers Vellies, Tadashi Shoji, M. Martin, Desigual, Marissa Webb, Creatures of Comfort, Natori, Tome, Malan Breton, Raquel Allegra, Ulla Johnson, Rodebjer, Yuna Yang, Edie Parker, Ohne Titel, Gant, Alison Lou, Kempner, Adam Selman
AN arresting sight. A dress. Forest green. Embellished with … sequins, beads, floral appliques and all manner of fripperies.
It would become clear shortly that this is maximalism.
Here is a consequence of not quitting Pier 59 Studios for the Tess Giberson presentation after a quick visit to the necessary.
One imagines, though, that there can be far worse outcomes than a tête-à -tête on the Sundeck during a break in the rainfall with Jerome LaMaar, the creative force behind the emerging line, 5:31 Jerome, which for S/S 2016 is mainly about maximalism.
And what is maximalism? It is the opposite of minimalism, silly.
“Everyone says less is more but in this case more is more and it works,” asserts the F.I.T. grad. “I wanted to show it’s possible to mix more of your ideas to create something that is authentic and wearable, but also glamorous.”
One would be hardpressed to argue against the glam of the black sequined pencil skirt paired with a black boatneck blouse with massive jewel-toned beading and other accents. It works. Indeed, the whole extremely busy capsule collection works.
From the 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.
“I think a lot of us have gotten really comfortable with normcore, that whole moment of ‘I’m just wearing basics all the time’, and we need things to give our wardrobes some life. The whole idea is to make everything as an accessory and make it work.”
JLM, who was taught to sew by his grandmother, found his calling around the age of 6 or 7.
“When I was a kid I wanted to be a designer for 'The Wiz.' I love that movie! That was my favorite, favorite movie. That’s what kind of opened my eyes,” he explains. “When they got to Emerald City, I remember saying, 'I wanna to do that'. I loved the energy."
Less than 10 years later, at the still tender age of 15, he landed an internship at Baby Phat. “And worked my way up the ladder and became the person I am today by mixing in all of my references."
His references caught the attention of Beyonce, the first celebrity, he says, to wear 5:31 Jerome (coat). But what of a more regular girl? "gIt’s interesting. I like girls who are intellectual and sexy,” the Bronx native says thoughtfully.
“I think the idea of being productive and sexy and smart is really attractive. Most people think you have to have one or the other, but I think you can do both. You can easily be both.”
Meanwhile, it has been established that maximalism works, even down to the shoes. Oh, the shoes, not for those afraid of heights.
From the 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.
Himself discloses quite unapologetically: "After going so low to the ground with the pump that everybody has been loving and wearing, it’s time to go back up .. It’s a 70s reference there with the platform ... What goes with maximalism is height, drama, abundance, embellishment and that’s what that is."
But can this maximalism be reproduced within reason, for it has also been established that 5:31 Jerome S/S 2016 is rococo? Couturesque. This does not normally lend itself to easy replication?
What say you, JLM, should Bergdorf Goodman require dozens of the belted leather vest with the circular cutouts framed with silver hardware, or the jeans bearing up under a surfeit of embellishment? What say you?
“How many do you want?”
Desigual
THE women of Barcelona are confident. They are comfortable in their own skin. They don’t follow the trends. They march to their own beat. If they wish to tie a T-shirt on their head in lieu of a scarf, then so be it.
The women of Barcelona are also bold, like Desigual S/S2016, which takes its cues from these iconoclasts. The most obvious manifestation of this boldness is the colors, not surprisingly.
But boldness is also evident in the particular pairings of the various and sundry prints (pink and white skirt check skirt and white top with multi-colored riptide print on bodice and sleeves, for instance) heretofore not part of the Desigual template. Frankly, the result is dazzling.
The Barcelona woman is to be emulated and imitated.
Fashion Palette
Hunt & Heart S/S 2016
Mauricio Alpizar S/S 2016, left, and Duskii S/S2016. Photos by Yours Truly.
IT was the Aussies in the house at Pier 59 Studios for Fashion Palette Australian Women’s Show. It’s a group show with a whopping 12 collections showing one after the other.
A good idea on paper, it taxes the attention span and the patience of those who must dash for another show. Too many scurried out like rats in the darkness between each show. Perhaps, six is enough.
Among the dozen, it was too much of nothing special, save for Antonella Ianni (fashion forward staples in b&w; see video directly above); Simmone Standing (mainly whites with impressive draping); Duskii (attractive, functional and seemingly high-tech swimwear).
Also Hunt & Heart ( eye-catching silhouettes, asymmetry and bandwork, some inferior fabrics [silk, satin] notwithstanding).
Honorable mention goes to Mauricio Alpizar (mainly too costumey, with a couple of exceptions and vibrant color palette).
Really, The Burning Question Is Why Hadn't Someone Created the Flygrip Sooner?
Michael Karmatz invented the Flygrip out of necessity. Photo by Yours Truly
It's' simple. You affix it directly to the back of your phone or phone case. Lift the lever. Slide your ring finger and middle finger underneath.
Now, cradle the phone against your fingers, without allowing it to slide into the palm. Turn it over. Your thumb is hovering over the screen. You are good to go. Start tapping without the fear of dropping your delicate device. Do note that your other hand is free to do something else.
The Flygrip has emancipated you, allowing you to get all kinds of things done. That was the intent of Flygrip creator Micheal Karmatz, a multi-tasker, like most in the developed world.
The Flygrip can be easily and securely affixed to the back of a phone or phone case. Photo by Yours Truly.
During a brief chat in the Nextpert Stylextech Lounge, where Brother products were also doing various tricks with the stitch, MK gave Yours Truly the backstory on the Flygrip. Stay tuned for the Q&A.
On deck today, Day 2: CG, Gabriela Hearst, Wes Gordon, Jonathan Cohen, Visvim, Jason Wu, Yigal Azrouel, Novis, Kate Spade, Ida Cohen, Custo Barcelona, Zimmermann, Tanya Taylor, Rosie Assoulin, Sally LaPointe, Betsey Johnson, Karigam,Polo, Cushnie et Ochs, Giulietta, Max Gengos, Pamella Roland, Kye, Ryan Roche, Nicole Miller, Givenchy, Zang Toi, Chromat, Academy of Art University
Visit http://www.flygrip.com to learn more about the Flygrip; visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
The "Sign Me Up" and "Lavish" styles from the Nine West Fall 2015 collection. Photo by Yours Truly.
ONE is a ballet-type with strings; the other is a pump with straps on the vamp and at the ankle. Both are the belles of this ball.
Of all of the shoes on the walls, counters and other surfaces, “Sign Me Up” ($79) and “Lavish” ($99) are the two Fall 2015 styles getting the most fits at “Step Out.”
Hosted by Nine West, InStyle magazine and actress Jamie Chung, “Step Out” was one of a boatload of parties Wednesday night, heralding New York Fashion Week. The official start of the eight-day gussied-up tradeshow is today.
Speaking of which, this dog and pony show not only has a new venue(s) and new sponsors, it has a new name. That’s New York Fashion Week: The Shows to you, you, you and you …
That’s right, no more Mercedes-Benz. There is still an automobile sponsor – lead partner in IMG-speak – but the moniker of Lexus does not appear on the name of the event.
"Step Out" was an occasion to get up, close and personal with new shoes. Photo by Yours Truly.
Much of this change is informed by the acquisition a few years ago of fashion week owner,IMG, by William Morris Endeavor, formerly Agency. Like IMG, WME/IMG has an interest in a number of fashion weeks around the world, including London, Milan and Russia, but not Paris.
Not so surprisingly, this new world order has given rise to confusion and consternation. For instance, there are the shows under the umbrella of IMG and/or the ones under the umbrella of the CFDA, which used to run fashion week before it handed it off to IMG. Further, there are the MADE shows. They are owned by IMG.
To that end, there is not one major hub such as a Bryant Park or the much pilloried Lincoln Center, but three. Press, buyers, tastemakers, crashers and others will toggle from Skylight at Moynihan Station (360 West 33rd Street) to Skylight Clarkson Sq (558 Washington Street) to MADE at Milk Studios (450 West 15th St).
That’s not all, though, lest one forget the designers – and there are many – who refuse to show in either of the Big Three venues. Even more travel.
“Not everybody is a fashion editor with a driver,” groused one journalist.
There are a few shuttle services such as the NEXTPERT Stylextech Mobile Lounge, but not nearly enough considering the number of “off-site(s)” shows. It will be interesting if nothing else.
Sklyight at Moynihan Station is one of three major hubs of New York Fashion Week: The Shows. Photo courtesy of Moynihan Station.
Meanwhile some things remain the same: Nicholas K will open New York Fashion Week: The Shows and Marc Jacobs will close it out.(See video above of Nicholas K S/S2015 show).
Thanks for tender mercies.
On deck today, Day 1: Nicholas K, BCBG, Area, Erin Fetherston, Assembly NY, Creatures of the Wind, 5:31 Jerome, Tess Giberson, Brothers Vellies, Tadashi Shoji, M. Martin, Desigual, Marissa Webb, Creatures of Comfort, Natori, Tome, Malan Breton, Raquel Allegra, Ulla Johnson, Rodebjer, Yuna Yang, Edie Parker, Ohne Titel, Gant, Alison Lou, Kempner, Adam Selman
Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.
Cheating on exams has become all too common. Archive photos.
LIKEsince … forever – some of the reactions of women, presumed to be outrageous, have been put down to hormones.
It's a common expression, a self-serving exaggeration of already dubious scientific pontification: “She’s hormonal.” Of course, that means a woman is menstruating and the hormones in play are essentially making her crazy.
No doubt, her response cannot simply be justified. Further, such short-sightedness does not take into account that a woman may not even be bleeding.
Now science informs us that hormones can drive people to commit all manner of unethical acts such as cheating. Two teams of researchers from the University of Texas- Austin and Harvard University have arrived at these conclusions.
In “Hormones and ethics: Understanding the biological basis of unethical conduct,” they posit that on two, different levels, hormones – housed in the endocrine system – can drive a body to lie and cheat.
Could it also extend to stealing, killing, kicking the dog, drowning the cat and so on? They don't say explicitly. The article is published in the August 2015 edition of Journal of Experimental Psychology: General.
According to these findings, it's hormones that inform, for instance, the kind of behavior trumpeted by Gordon Gekko (Michael Douglas) in the film, “Wall Street.” (See video above.).
A math test administered to 117 people was the means by which researchers reached their findings about our behavior. The Hormones and Ethics study, researchers say, is one that illustrates the degree to which the endocrine system influences human behavior. It is the degree of this influence that early studies of hormones and behavior did not address.
“The take-home message from our studies is that appeals based on ethics and morality – the carrot approach – and those based on threats of punishment – the stick approach – may not be effective in preventing cheating,” says researcher and UT-Austin professor of Psychology Robert Josephs.
“By understanding the underlying causal mechanism of cheating, we might be able to design interventions that are both novel and effective.”
One hopes. One also hopes that a lot more study is done, lest hormones become the fall guy for everything that is wrong with us.
Visit http://www.bit.ly/1fZjcJZ to learn more about “Hormones and ethics: Understanding the biological basis of unethical conduct.”
A scene from "The Forbidden Room." Photo from "The Forbidden Room" Facebook page.
The damsel’s salvation, it initially appears, is in the hands of lumberjacks. It is perhaps the lumberjack leader who turns up out of nowhere in the aforementioned submarine.
Posts
