NYFW: The Shows FW2016 Day 2: 0'2nd Doesn't Have to Over-Embellish; Fashion Hong Kong on March; International Woolmark Prize: Teatum Jones Gets Blanket Approval

From the 0'2nd FW2016 Collection.Photos by V.W.

BY V.W.

Some of the players on Day 2: Concept Korea, Francesca Liberatore, Fashion Hong Kong, 0’2nd, Nicole Miller, 5:31 Jerome

CONTEMPLATING the 0’2nd FW2016, a notion strikes. One can liken it to a beautiful woman who does not call attention to herself.

One doesn’t notice her straightaway, for at this cocktail party she is momentarily obscured by all of the painted doves flitting about the room so everybody can see them, trussed up in clothes that are too tight too short too low, poorly navigating 7-inch heels.

Meanwhile, our beauty is wearing a bit of lipstick and blush. She’s engaged in a good conversation about – say – the merits of ginger tea. Her outfit of choice this evening is a simple black turtleneck underneath a sequined brown plaid dress and a sensible heel such as can be found in the current 0’2nd collection. When the gawkers finally notice her, they instinctively know they are now observing true beauty. And quality.

Once upon time there were questions about whether this contemporary brand could make a go of it in the United States. It has more than proved that it can attract others aside from Barney’s. Visit the likes of Neiman Marcus for proof. Not convinced, then look in on Christel’s Clothing (Nebraska).

How refreshing it is when a designer or label concedes/discloses – as 0’2nd has noted – that it is not trying to reinvent the wheel. After all, there is merit in producing, quality, wearable, accessible clothing. And it doesn’t hurt to have a few tricks and twists up the sleeve.

The red coat with a wide lapel and wide semi-shawl collar will see a body through many winters and lose not one ounce of style. The craft therein is evident but not obviously so.

On the otherhand, craft obviously and unapologetically informs the gray, sleeveless jumper dress with red stitching. To the naked eye, the stitching is perfect.

To the naked eye, aided by reading glasses, it is still perfect. If one stitch is out of formation, far be it for these eyes to quibble. Another point of pride in this frock is the use of Gore-Tex, Tyvek or some coated nylon more commonly associated with raincoats. It’s a clever use of fabric.

Indeed, FW2016 0’2nd (and in general up to this point) is that beautiful woman who does not require copious embellishment to look good or draw attention to herself.

FASHION HONG KONG

IT is probably safe to assert that Hong Kong is a fashion capital in the making. Last season brought Fashion Guerilla.
Blowing in this season is Fashion Hong Kong Some initial impressions.

From the Harrison Wong FW2016 collection.

Loom Loop: quirky edgy, with a tendency toward asymmetry and pajama-like prints.

Harrison Wong: Dressing a man for life’s various occasions. Veering from streetwear to the professorial to professional casual.

Hidy N.G.: Strong point of view. Couturesque. Crafty.

2016 INTERNATIONAL WOOLMARK PRIZE

AND the 2016 International Woolmark Prize goes to … Teatum Jones.

The UK-based label fronted by Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones, beat out five others last night for the annual prize presented to emerging labels for their use of wool in their designs.

From 2016 International Woolmark Prize winner, Teatum Jones.

They were inspired by the geometry of blanket border designs. The covers for Irish beds are repurposed on dresses and skirts to interesting effect, part of which involved a history-making trip to northern France.

For their efforts, Teatum Jones gets around $70,000 and placement of their collection in high-end stores around the world, including Harvey Nichols and Saks Fitfh Avenue.

On deck today, Day 3: Adam Lippes, Self-Portrait, Lacoste, Jill Stewart, Dion Lee, Taoray Wang, Zang Toi, Kaelen, Lie Sangbong, Herve Leger by Max Azria, Collina Strada, Emerging Designers, Banana Republic, Tibi, Pyer Moss, Designers’ Collective, Stevie Boi, Christian Siriano, Monique Lhuillier, Charles Youssef, Moncler Grenoble, Baja East, Altuzarra, Michelle Ann Kids + Bound by the Crown Couture Children’s Wear

Visit http://www.nyfw.com/ to learn more about New York Fashion Week: The Shows, including show information, videos and installations.